Falls from heaven, loungin' in Brazil and rollicking Rio

Having survived the 22hr bus and trek across the Argentinian Border into Brazil we made our way to Hostel Natura. This place was totally different to anywhere we had stayed before. Our pal Di had received a recommendation for it and I'm pleased to say it was a really good shout. Located in a very secluded country area about 4 or 5 kms outside of Foz de Iguacu on the main drag to the airport and the falls, this place was completely self-contained with bar and restaurant on site. When we arrived we were pretty exhausted but couldn't resist having a perch on the decking by the lake(!) to watch the sun go down and chill out with a few very cold beers. We were wishing Woody and Di would come around the corner then so we could get our holiday within a holiday started but alas they didn't arrive 'til the wee hours...

So, the next day we decided to have a slow start and just make our own way to see the Brazilian side of Iguacu Falls. You pay R$37(£15ish) and you're kinda left off to your own devices. It's quite a well organised, modern park, with educational centres and many, many different bits to see and do but we were solely interested in seeing the falls at this stage. The first viewing site catches your breath as you realise any picture you've ever see of them hasn't done justice to the sheer scale of the falls. As you move from viewing point to viewing point the views only get better and in fact you get to see more than you could initially. En route we were treated to seeing an array of local vegetation and wildlife including lots of giant butterflies, quitas, geckos and some proper big lizards but I don't know what they're called.

At one point a platform took us way out over the river within 50ms of one the larger falls; this was the point we were advised to bring our rainwear for. But seems as it was a hot day we threw caution to the wind and just got soaked.

It was amazing and exhilarating. The last viewing point brought us within 10m of the same fall, but we were more above it so didn't get the same soaking as before.

It was spectacular; the unbridled power prompted many comments on the sheer force of nature – something that never seems to be far from the headlines this year. We decided to get some grub before we departed but unfortunately our meal was completely destroyed by multiple crazy wasps, we actually couldn't sit for more than 5 seconds....the only dampener on a great experience. A bird park just across the road is apparently a common stop for those exiting the falls, we went for a look but were a little disconcerted when the ostriches fenced in outside looked very dishevelled, ill even. We decided to pass, only to slightly regret our actions later when we were advised that that pen was in fact the bird recovery area and these birds were in fact sick and that we'd missed a tropical paradise within...oops.

Later it was really refreshing to be able to catch up with the guys over some nice food and beers in the warm night, admittedly interrupted by rain but very enjoyable nonetheless. In fact, we were treated to a particularly spectacular electrical storm, it must have gone on for an hour at least, the lightning very rarely making it to ground. We were yet again reminded of the power and devastating ability of good ole Mama nature.

The next day we made our way to the Argentinian side of the falls, this trip was more expensive. We paid R$100 (£40ish) which included transport and a guide walked us to different parts of park; first we walked for about 15 minutes on gangways over the river until we came to the top of a large waterfall, you could easily see the Brazilian side from here – exactly where we'd been stood the previous day.

Following that we got the train to what's known as The Devil's Throat – after some walking you basically arrive at this huge waterfall, and you are standing right above where it falls...awesome and so powerful.

From there we took the train again(after some waiting) back down and had some lunch, after this those of us who had decided to go out on the speed boat trip board a jeep-thing that took us on an 8km drive through the jungle which also consisted of a sort of nature-talk from a guide. But then it was down to business, clobber off, lifejackets on and off we went on the speedboat.

It can't have lasted more than 12 minutes but it was absolutely brilliant, scary at one or two points but just mind blowing. The boats go right in under the falls on both the Brazilian and Argentian sides to the point where you get absolutely soaked, it's so exhilarating and well worth the extra (if pricey) R$120. We thought we'd seen it all at that stage but once you get dropped off you walk back along a cliff face, upwards, there is one last viewing platform there that takes you right under, a small in breadth but heart stopping in volume, waterfall where we got absolutely soaked again but it was a super bonus after an out of this world experience.

Do it, do it, do it if you can.

We departed Foz de Iguacu early the next day; that's when the first giant cock-up of our trip happened. Admittedly, thanks to me (Kelly) I believe. It turned out when we were checking in that our flights were booked for the wrong Sunday 27...March not Feb. New tickets cost us all about £200 but we wanted to get to Rio and didn't want to take the chance on getting other transport when things were getting busy for Carnival. So, that may well shave a week off our time in South East Asia but I guess you've got to roll with the punches. Sorry again to my travelling companions.

We did make it to Rio and thanks to some great haggling on Di's part we managed to get a taxi to Angra Dos Reais for R$300 – about half what they were asking initially. From there we got the ferry to Abraao on Ihla Grande. Luckily our accommodation wasn't far from the port so we were sitting chilling with the locals watching a Flamengo game on the box, with ice cold beers on our hands within minutes. Its a pretty small town/resort and the people we met were friendly and helpful. That night we ended up fairly tipsy and engaged in an epic game of guess that tune which to be fair there were no winners. Stuart, Woody and I did our best to have a house party in one of our tiny studio flats but it didn't last very long due to a lack of people and being a bit drunk.

We were rudely awakened on Day two to rain, rain and more rain. We played cards and drank beer all day...it was a fun relaxing day and we didn't mind having a chill out day as we'd been doing a lot for the previous few days. The next day didn't look as dull so we decided to make a break for it and got a boat to Lopes Mendes beach on the other side of the island. At this stage we'd managed to pick up Lisa again who'd recently joined the Ihla Grande massive. The beach was lovely and we had a very chilled out, if slightly sunburnt, day. Unfortunately, Woody never got to use the snorkelling gear he brought as the waves were fairly epic, but we enjoyed the beating they gave us instead.

By the time we got back to the island the power was out, that happens when it rains(!?!). So, we decided it was time for Caipirhinas. For those of you who have not had one, try it when the opportunity arises. They are very nice and slightly addictive, oh and they are very potent normally. So, a lack of power didn't stop us, head light adorned I soldiered on and made sure the troops were watered. Later that evening we all trekked along the beach with our torches to the hostel Lisa was staying in. The place next door had a BBQ/party on and we had a great night, even when the power came back on!!!! We met lots of people there and went home slightly worse for wear – can you see a pattern forming here?

The following day and the rain had returned. We were all a bit hungover that day so we didn't mind initially. Then Stuart and I had to move rooms as our roof had more holes than a sieve so that started the day abruptly. Not much to report that day but we decided to get some take-away pizza that night. The pizzas weren't exactly cheap about £30 for two, when there was another item on the bill I enquired as to what it was – they told me we had to pay £2 for each of the boxes the pizza came in!! I could barely hide my displeasure...and I don't think it was to fund recycling or the like unfortunately.

So, the following day was departure day and off to Rio and the madness. Another of our 6 friends from Scotland arrived at varying points that day. We had a one bed flat just off Copacabana beach and a studio which was closer to Ipanema. They were basic but perfect for what we wanted really. The first day was taken up with some sunbathing on Copacabana beach, a very nice beach I might add. Post 5 became our hangout for those who know it as it was about half way between the two flats. That night we descended on the blocos (or street parties). As we left the flat quite late we didn't get along to our first one until about 11pm, they finish up around 10pm normally but there is still people around usually in fancy dress, drinking and partying for another couple of hours. So we stood on the side of the street for about 2 or 3 hours meeting and talking to Brazilians, drinking Caipirinhas and having a great time basically. There was offers of kisses and marriage and all sorts but we all managed to keep ourselves under basic control and then made our way to our next bloco, this was on the main gay bar street in Rio. We had more drinks, met more crazy, lovely Brazilians including Ro and his mates who taught me to say amazing things in Portuguese like 'Hey, what are you talking about I'm Brazilian!' and 'Get lost you (insert expletive)!' - they were hilarious, we did try to meet again but alas the chaos that is Carnival prevented it.

I was dragged home at about 4 o'clock in the morning after a crazy fun night.

We decided to go to the Sambodromo our third night in Rio, we had heard tickets could be snapped up for less than asking price if you went along at about midnight, it kicks off around 6pm and runs 'til about 6am. So we made our way across town in taxis and eventually found a tout with 8 tickets, some haggling my father would be proud of later - which involved a lot of 'locos' and hand gestures - we managed to get the tickets for a quarter of the price they were asking. I'm not kidding you, the best money I ever spent.

When we were making our way to our section of the stands we took a slightly wrong turn and ended up in what could only be described as the costume graveyard...initially I looked around with intrepedation in case we weren't supposed to be there and then I thought well the best way to test this is to get a costume on – so that's what I did and nobody cared – in fact there were guys shoving some of the thousands littered around the ground into the back of a bin lorry! Sacrilegious! These costumes are so amazing. So, Stu, Ben, Di and I marched on to the Sambodromo in our garb DEEElighted with ourselves – and getting quite a few laughs from the staff on route.

..I don't know what they thought but unfortunately, eventually we were made take them off before we went into the stands .

What ensued I can only describe as one of the best nights of my life. It's difficult to explain but just sitting there watching these 'schools' go buy during the parades was so uplifting and joy inducing. All these people are there for the sole purpose of dancing and singing and playing music for the crowd. They practice all year and build these insane floats (some really beautiful others borderline grotesque), create these amazing costumes and choreograph dances and scenes all for this one performance. It's awesome and I'll never forget it and I'm determined to go back again some day. We stayed for about 4 hours, and there was still one parade to go when we left – the Cariocans (people from Rio) know how to party all night for sure. It rained quite a bit that night but everyone's spirits were high after witnessing such a great celebration of life – and one of the biggest dress up parties any of us had been to.

A long lie was necessary the next day so we didn't get up to much; we went to a beach party in Ipanema that night that was more like a rave at points but good fun again. As we were in close proximity to party-central also known as the gay district we headed up there for a couple more before we went home and the party was raging there, I was beginning to wonder how everyone keeps going across the four days but I forgot they just slept all day and we were the mugs trying to do some sight seeing and beach lounging. So the next day we went to Sugar Loaf Mountain (or as Ben called it, the hill thing). We had been holding out on a clear day but it didn't seem to be coming. It was cool, two giant rocks interconnected by cable cars. We were lucky that it was pretty clear when we got up there; the views of the city from there are spectacular and it was well worth the jaunt. The long queues made it slightly tiring but it was good to get into the tourist spirit.

That night we took in some more blocos, mainly on the sea front at Copacabana, they were good fun; admittedly we caved pretty early that night but retired to the flat for an ongoing game of 'Sing a song with X in it' at that point we had done, weather, seasons, girls names, places...there's been more since but suggestions on a postcard please.

The following day the tourist bug had gotten to some of the gang and they took off to see Christ the Reedemer. Stu, Woody and I opted out after we received some reviews that included, 'long queues', 'no view unless good weather' and 'big stone thing'. The guy's' review was more positive although it was a bit cloudy so they didn't get great views but they were still glad they went. The rest of us located a pub to watch the Champions League in. Shenanigans in Ipanema, which was fine until later in the night when they tried to accuse Woody of not paying his bill, they got a mouthful from the boys and looked rather sheepish when they recounted the till – nonetheless an apology wasn't forthcoming and we were out of there anyway. That night we made it as far as the beach front in Ipanema where we stood shooting the breeze with some more very nice locals, then following one particularly strong round of Caipirinhas we bade farewell to Carnival and called it a day with the party in Rio.

On a sad note Woody and Di had to leave Rio early having received some bad news from home; our thoughts are with you guys.

The last day was spent down the beach. Stu and I were very relieved also when the laundry we had put our clothes in 6 days before reopened (bear this in mind Carnival backpackers!) and we managed to retrieve some clean clothes. An early night was had by all and needed for sure at that stage.

We set off for Buzios the day after arriving late in the afternoon to our 'villa'. Now don't think palace, more big-ish house with pool and BBQ area. And AMAZING VIEWS.

According to the information we had received, our housekeeper Isabella, was fluent in Portugese, English and Norwegian. She possibly was, but she was so laid back that getting more than one word answers from her was an achievement.

We were all a bit shattered that day so following a rather long meandering walk to civilisation we had dinner in a great little local restaurant. The rest of the week pretty much followed suit, we chilled by the pool during the day and made an excursion into the central area in the afternoon/evening. We did manage one night out at Pacha but rather than the size of crowd you'd expect in an Ibiza club, there was about the same number as you'd get at the local miner's club. It was still a good night, only cut slightly short by Mr Reeve displaying some death defying dance moves that culminated in a kung-fu kick that caught the back of a girl's head; Jackie Chan eat your heart out.

We also had a night out for my (Stuart) birthday that started off well with a lovely meal and drinks but finished off not-so-well with Kelly getting acute food poisoning (probably from a dodge mussel or prawn) and one of Isabella's friends having to give us a lift down to the local hospital at 3am. 2 saline drips and a round anti-sickness injections and we were back at the villa. I'm glad to say Kelly has made a fully recovery now, just don't mention “fruta del mar” around her for a while.

We left Buzios and the rest of the gang a couple of days ago. We returned to Rio for one last jaunt and to see some of the other side of the city. The hostel we stayed in had the most fantastic views of the city, it was worth staying in Santa Tereasa for that alone.

One funny and slightly frustrating things about our return to Rio was – the sun was splitting the stones. Sugar Loaf was bathed only in sunlight and Christ the Redeemer stood proud displayed atop his hill the whole time...we barely saw the top of his head the first week we were there. Anyway, as I (Kelly) still wasn't feeling up to much we spent the couple of days meandering the streets and getting our travel plans for the next leg sorted. Paddy's day came about while we were there and we managed to find a small Irish pub in Lapa around the corner from where we were staying. It was crazy with hundreds of people there, all dressed in green, drinking green beer. Unfortunately, we didn't bump into one other Irish person, a Paddy's day first for me I think.

We were also trying to meet up with some of the crazy locals we met the week before but my ailments got the better of me and we had to give up and go home early – a slightly surreal Paddy's day.

We had heard so many things about Rio we were a bit scared going there in the first place but in our experience it was no more unsafe than any other big city. On our second trip there we met more aggressive beggars who wouldn't take no for an answer, but thankfully some locals always shooed them away. And we have to say that generally speaking the Cariocans and the other Brazilian people we met were friendly, welcoming and loved a party especially. It's great the country is doing so well and I think they genuinely deserve it from what we witnessed, long may it last and get learning you Portuguese it's big business over there.

So, onto Buenos Aires, we are topping our bus record, as I write we are on hour 26 of 42...we just passed through Puerto Iguacu – slightly surreal backtracking too and I kinda felt like saying, 'heck, let's go see those spectacular waterfalls again' – but that would be backpacker insanity. We're looking forward to BA and out last 10 days in South America. It's crazy its gone so quick...one last installment from SA for you before we move to New Zealand...I must admit I am very, very happy to be moving to a mozzie free area for a few weeks. Stay tuned.

Foz de Iguacu, Brazil
Hostel Natura – 7/10 – would have marked higher but there was a very noisey tour group camping on the grounds who sort of took over to the detriment of other guests, otherwise fantastic but well out of town – however, near the airport and the Brazil side of the falls.

Ihla Grande
Cheap and central but basic
Bier Garden restaurant, very nice 9/10

Rio – of the few places I remember the name of;
Shennanigans, Ipanema – don't go there, they're con artists
Lapa Irish Pub – very nice I think but it was Paddy's day
Terra Brasilis Hostel, Santa Teresa – 9/10 – good brekkie, helpful staff, stunning views